One of those scalp problems people have at some point in their lives, but few people really know what causes dandruff. While you can see the flakes, they're not only itchy, but they're also making you uncomfortable, and so are the ingredients in anti-dandruff products.
Knowing the contents of the bottle is more important than one may think.
Dandruff is caused by a variety of reasons.
However, before starting to talk about ingredients, it's important to begin with the problem. The underlying cause of dandruff is actually an overgrowth of a yeast-like fungus known as Malassezia that is normally found on the scalp. In excessive amounts, it irritates the scalp, accelerates the turnover of skin cells, and makes them shed in the form of white or yellowish flakes.
Other factors would be:
- Excess sebum production: Malassezia is fueled by excess sebum production.
- Increased sensitivity of the skin
- Concentration of hormones that influence the activity of oil glands
Affects:
- Nutritional deficiencies, especially zinc and B vitamins
- Stress – can cause immune dysfunction and flare-ups
The reason why anti-dandruff products have a specific active ingredient is that each of these ingredients attacks a different component of this process.
Zinc Pyrithione
One of the most popular actives in anti-dandruff shampoos is zinc pyrithione. It acts by disrupting the cell membrane of Malassezia and preventing its growth on the scalp. It also possesses some antibacterial properties.
It's popular because it is effective at regular upkeep as well as treatment. It is generally used frequently without causing excessive dryness and is well-tolerated by most scalp types. It is available in many OTC shampoos at 1-2% concentration.
Ketoconazole
Ketoconazole is an antifungal medication that is one of the more effective medications for persistent or recurrent dandruff. Its action is by inhibiting ergosterol biosynthesis, which is essential to the cell membranes of fungi. If this is not present, the fungus cannot survive or reproduce well.
It has been recommended for moderate to severe cases of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis and scalp conditions that do not respond to less severe treatments. Prescription formulations usually contain 2% ketoconazole, and some over-the-counter formulations contain 1% ketoconazole. It's not meant for daily use as it can alter the scalp's natural microbiome balance if overused.
Selenium Sulfide
Selenium sulfide slows the growth of cells on the scalp, directly treating the flaking symptom. It also contains antifungal activity, which helps to decelerate Malassezia activity. This combination of action is beneficial to people who have heavy flakes and chronic fungal overgrowth.
It usually has a higher concentration of scent than other actives and, with extended usage, may discolour lighter or chemically treated hair, so use as directed and rinse well.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is not an antifungal. It's a keratolytic that will help to loosen and eliminate the accumulation of old skin cells on the scalp. This will remove surface contamination but not directly treat the fungal cause.
Hence the use of salicylic acid in combination with other actives. It's more suitable on its own for scaling that's caused by psoriasis or product build-up, which is not fungal dandruff. Overuse will remove the natural oils from the scalp and cause it to become even drier and more sensitive.
Coal Tar
Coal tar is among the most ancient ingredients that are utilised for scalp conditions. It decreases the quick multiplication of skin cells and has anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe an irritated scalp. This can be especially helpful if dandruff is red or if scalp psoriasis is involved. But it is very smelly, can stain clothes, and is not advisable for extended use. It is often utilised in a rotating method and not as a daily therapy.
Final Thoughts
It is best to use anti-dandruff products if the appropriate ingredient is used for the appropriate cause. Excessive dryness is a problem for the scalp – using a product that treats the dryness won't help with a problem that is dryness-related. This is why it's always useful to read labels and know what ingredients are in the product, whether it's for purchasing the right product or understanding the needs of the scalp.
Dandruff is often a sign of imbalance in the scalp, not just the skin! If you are struggling with dandruff despite conventional treatment, you might consider products for hair and scalp health from platforms like Traya, which have a more root-cause approach.
(Note: This article has been written by the Brand Desk.)