- By Iram Hussain
- Sun, 09 Feb 2025 03:03 PM (IST)
- Source:JND
Chikankari, a traditional embroidery art form originated in the Indian subcontinent with Lucknow being its epicenter. This ancient craft has been a cornerstone of Lucknow's rich cultural heritage with the city's skilled artisans perfecting the technique over centuries. Genuine chikankari is a painstakingly labour-intensive process where artisans meticulously hand-embroider intricate patterns on fabrics like cotton, chiffon and georgette often using white thread on pastel-hued backgrounds.
The allure of chikankari lies in its delicate ethereal beauty which has captivated people worldwide. So, if you are a lover of chikankari garments and going to buy a piece, then check these simple ways that will help you identify real and authentic chikankari embroidery from the fake one.
Ways To Identify Real Chikankari Embroidery
Handcrafted Imperfections
Authentic chikankari embroidery is characterised by subtle imperfections, a testament to the human touch. Unlike machine-made replicas, genuine chikankari embroidery features slight irregularities, making each piece unique. These imperfections are not flaws but rather a celebration of the artisan's skill and craftsmanship.
Precise Threadwork
Pure chikankari embroidery is distinguished by its fine and evenly-spaced stitches, showcasing the artisan's precision and skill. In contrast, counterfeit versions often reveal uneven or hasty threadwork, lacking refinement and attention to detail.
Natural Dyes
Real chikankari is characterised by a soft muted colour palette achieved through the use of natural dyes. Vibrant or synthetic hues are a clear indication of inauthenticity. Genuine chikankari's subtle colours add to the embroidery's timeless elegance.

Ways to spot authentic chikankari embroidery (Image Credits: Canva)
Reverse Side Reveals
Real chikankari's reverse side often reveals a slightly messy array of hand-embroidered threads and knots. In contrast, fake chikankari may display a neater reverse side, indicating machine embroidery and lacking the human touch.
Delicate Fabric
Upon closer inspection, genuine chikankari should feel lightweight, breathable and soft to the touch, distinguishing it from the stiff and coarse materials often used in mass-produced replicas. Thus, real chikankari is typically crafted on light airy fabrics that exude a sense of effortless elegance.
