• By Sukanya Saha
  • Sat, 29 Apr 2023 09:19 PM (IST)
  • Source:JND

What is the true meaning of the term "luxury"? This word has been excessively used in contemporary culture to describe various products, including sports cars, vacations, mattresses, and cosmetic products. However, despite being intended to convey exclusivity, the term has lost its distinction due to its frequent use.

In the fashion industry, which is governed by brand hierarchy, luxury has remained fairly constant in its classification, but its appearance has changed with time, from Dior's New Look's full-skirted femininity to the logo-emblazoned frenzy of the 2000s. So, what is luxury in 2023?

Think Gwyneth Paltrow, a Hollywood A-lister and millionaire through her company Goop, who wore expensive designer clothes such as Prada, Celine boots, and cashmere sweaters in a Utah courtroom during a legal battle involving a ski accident.

(Image credit: Twitter)

Her outfit consisted of neutral colours and lacked obvious logos, which may have gone unnoticed by some, but were immediately recognisable as high-end brands by those familiar with luxury fashion.

Some fashion brands, including The Row, Bottega Veneta, and Khaite, have adopted a simpler and understated approach to luxury, which some refer to as "quiet luxury" or non-trend trends. This style is not as rigid as minimalism but more refined than "normcore."

Admittedly, it's not simple to define this aesthetic and it seems to be more about a feeling than a particular style. However, one thing is certain - "quiet luxury" is a timeless appearance because it essentially means elevated and refined essentials.

Brands That Can Benefit From Quiet Luxury

Quiet luxury is one of those "you'll know it when you see it" trends. It is characterised by a subdued colour palette, texture, and the absence of logos. The trend's popularity in the upcoming spring season may be attributed in part to the influence of television shows featuring the wealthy elite, such as Succession. The concept of quiet luxury was also popular during the 2008 recession, and brands like Everlane and Armani are likely to benefit from its resurgence.

Quiet luxury, according to Style magazine, has been defined by Thomaï Serdari, Director of the fashion and luxury MBA programme at New York University’s Stern School of Business, as, "Clothing of the highest quality, but also clothing that has timelessness, is sophisticated and understated."

This means avoiding ostentatious luxury items such as gold Gucci belt buckles or Louis Vuitton logo handbags that clearly exclaim "I spent a lot of money on this." Rather, consider clothing items that speak softly: cashmere sweaters, silk button-downs, or wool overcoats made from high-quality materials in neutral hues.

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The quiet luxury trend also emphasises the importance of well-tailored clothing, according to Serdari. The clothes are designed with structure and made from quality materials, in contrast to fast fashion items that are often produced quickly and cheaply without attention to fit or longevity, she explained.

If someone asked you to name the top luxury brands in the world, you might think of Chanel, Dior, or Hermes, but you may not immediately think of Loro Piana unless you are well-versed in luxury brands. However, despite not being as well-known as some of the other luxury brands, Loro Piana is currently one of the most powerful and impactful names in the world.

Loro Piana, an Italian brand with a rich heritage, is renowned for producing high-quality wool, cashmere, and vicuna fibers. Despite generating more than $1 billion in sales each year, the brand doesn't organise extravagant fashion shows in Milan and doesn't rely on celebrity endorsements.

Although Loro Piana lacks star-studded fashion shows, the brand has gained recognition through occasional celebrity sightings. For instance, in 2021, the Duchess of Sussex wore a maroon cashmere suit from Loro Piana during her visit to New York. Celebrities like Sharon Stone, Uma Thurman, and Eddie Redmayne also wear the brand.

Apart from Loro Piana, there is also Brunello Cucinelli, Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, and Rick Owens, to pick up logo-free pieces from.

Why Is Quiet Luxury So Popular Now?

Lorna Hall, the director of fashion intelligence at trend-forecasting firm WGSN, told Business Insider, as pandemic-era restrictions eased in 2021, fashion trends moved towards bright colours, loud prints, and revealing styles - known as "peacocking" and "dopamine dressing". However, as the excitement of leaving lockdowns and the economy began to worsen, it is understandable that fashion trends would change as well.

"Right now, we are living through times that call for that more paired back approach," she added, citing reasons such as reduced disposable income and the possibility of an impending recession, greater emphasis on sustainability and ethical consumption, and concerns regarding job security.

TV Trendsetters

(Image credit: Twitter)

The popular HBO show Succession depicts the lives of the wealthy and ruthless Roy family, led by the gruff patriarch Logan. Costume designer Michelle Matland has designed expensive yet understated wardrobes for each character that evolve with their storyline, pleasing viewers who have been paying attention to the fashion since the show's debut in 2018.

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"It shouldn't have bling quality. You're always going to have your, I guess, Kardashians — you know, the people who wear things that draw attention. They may have the same amount of money, but different aspirations," Matland told Time.

The Fundamentals Of Stealth Wealth

A wardrobe filled with quiet luxury items takes into account the practical needs and movements of the wearer. Nowadays, many people are focused on dressing for social media posts, which can sometimes involve wearing uncomfortable and impractical outfits.

However, in real life, most people want to be able to go about their day-to-day activities in well-made, refined, and hassle-free clothing. This is where quiet luxury pieces come in, as they provide clothing that is both functional and stylish.

Investing in fashion items involves more than just spending a lot of money on an outfit. It encourages a thoughtful and selective approach to fashion consumption. Investing means buying high-quality clothing and accessories that can be worn throughout the year, regardless of the season. In essence, it is therefore, about getting the most value out of each purchase while still maintaining a sense of elegance.